I finally arrived in kodai last night. It has been quite a rush just getting here, and from the little I've seen of KIS, I think this expereience will be one for the ages. The campus is beautiful, the city is very unique and will be a ton of fun to explore, and the people I've met here are amazing.
However, between Incredible jet lag, Culture shock, language barrier, and all the new sights, sounds, and smells I'm expereiencing, I am very much on sensory over load right now. In light of that, I've decided to focus these blogs a little more. Rather than try and recount all of my stories and experiences here, I will focus on one expereience or event, and talk about it a little deeper.
Todays topic is traffic. On the flight over, I stumbled across a short auto reveiw show called "the Autocar show." In the episode that I watched, they reviewed a new, economy class, Toyota that was coming out soon. One of the comments that the host made was that the car sacraficed smooth and comfortable ride for stiffer suspension that made it easier to dodge in and out of traffic. At the time I didn't think much of this, but as soon as we got into the taxi in delhi, I realized how important that it. There are lane markers on some roads here, but there really more like decoration, and the stop lights are very much optional. At one point our taxi driver made a right turn from the left "lane" with about four rows of cars in between.
When I got out of the taxi in Delhi, I though it was a very exciting and unique ride, but I never would have classified it as terrifying. That title belongs to the cab ride we took from Coimbatore to Kodaikanal. To give you a reference your sharing the road not only with other cars, but (in order from smallest to largest of course); Buses and trucks, Buffalo and cart, just Buffalo, Horses, Rickshaws of every variety you could imagine, Motorcyles (thousand of motorcycles), Bicycles, Pedestrians, and Dogs. Initially, when traffic is really tight, its not a big deal because you don't drive that fast. If there is an intersection ahead with cross traffic, you just nose your way though. The really adventure is when you get out into the country a little. Traffic thins out a little, roads get narrower, and you go much, much faster. At points I noticed we were going upwards of 105kmh, On a road that Americans would call barley larger than a on lane highway.
Here's a hypethetical situation for you. What do you do when you get caught behind a slow moving rickshaw going about a left hand bend? Do you be patient and wait for a safer straight away to pass him. Nah. Patience is for the weak of heart. You toot your horn a few times, gun your underpowered four cylinder SUV, and give your very white, very American passagners (especially the one in the front seat. That was me) a moment of pure terror they will never forget. OH NO! There's a a bus on the other side of that corner heading straight for you and your both gong 100kmh. Do you slow down and retreat behind the safety of the slow rickshaw? of course not. Real men don't back down. You honk your horn, and squeeze between the on coming bus of death, and the rickshaw, with enough space to make your passengers wish they had braught there brown pants.
The kicker is that this taxi ride wasnt a quick 10 minute jaunt acorss down. It a four hour treck out of the city, through the plains, and up the mountain to Kodai. It was easily the most terrifying driving experience I have ever had.
It occured to me once we had arrived safley at Kodai, and I had pried my own death grip from the seat cushion by my knee, that this traffic represents two parts of india that have shocked me the most.
The first is the general sense of controlled chaos. There don't seem to be any strict traffic laws here. If it makes you move forward, you do it. The only common factor is the drive to get to your destination, and you do pretty much anything to acheive that. Talking to some of the Indian teachers I have met here that really manifests it self in the government. There isn't such thing as zoning, you just build whatever needs to be built wherever its most convenient to build it.
The other thing the traffic reflects about India that shocked me was the pragmatic and entrepreneurial spirit of the Indian people. They seem to use whatever they can to achieve there goal, and more often that not that goal seems to be entrepreneurial in nature. There are millions of small privalty owned hotels, shops, resteraunts and bars around. Its quite remarkable. I get the sense that this country could be very wealthy if everyone didn't constanly cut each other off and get in each others way. At the same time, like the traffic, the way they do things here is working to some extant, and maybe that really what matters.
Thats itfor now, gotta go eat lunch with my host teacher,
Kevin